Welcome to Pleatwork Embroidery

What is Pleatwork Embroidery? This is a term that I have coined to describe the embroidery used on the clothing prior to the 17th century. The word itself is drawn from a period German term 'fitz-arbeit' or "pleat work" ⁽¹⁾ . When we hear the word smocking we naturally think of little girls dresses with their embroidered necklines and bodices. Most of them are done with in a style known as English Smocking. This is not to say that smocking originated in England, nor was it isolated to just England, rather this phrase was coined from its usage through post period in the rural smocks and coats of England and Wales through the 18th , 19th centuries and popularized in clothing during the Victorian era. ⁽²⁾

If we examine modern classifications of smocking, it not only tends to cover the embroidery, but any manipulation of pleating in a decorative fashion tends to be lumped together in the "smocking" categories. This could be translated to the useage of pleating for decorative purposes and the embroidery that was used to embellish and anchor it during the medieval and renaissance periods. Put this into the concept of using the pleats or the pleating as a ground for embroidery and it becomes a much wider scope of study and it now becomes "pleat work" or "embroidery on pleats". Essentially just about any form of embroidery that was used in period can be translated to being done over pleats or on the pleats.

To clarify definitions for the purpose of this site, modern terms will be when describing stitch types. Because we really do not know what the actual terms were. Upon study of the portraiture and a few extant pieces both in an out of period it becomes somewhat clear that there is as many different styles of the embroidery over pleats as there are types of embroidery. But, if you break down what is seen in the portraits and the few extant garments three basic forms are found:

• Stitching through pleats
  Stitching through pleats takes into consideration any garments in which the fabric is drawn up using a gathering thread or pleated without one and then stitched through the actual pleats for either decorative purposes or for providing a way for fullness of garments to be taken up. This would include the modern smocking stitches of outline/stem, trellis, chain, satin, honeycomb, surface honeycomb. (see stitch glossary for examples ) and variations such as pattern darning through pleats.
  
• Using pleating as a base for surface embroidery and trim
  Using the pleating as a ground fabric for surface embroidery arises when you look at garments and portraits which have elaborate trims and fabrics over pleating and embroidery styles such as applique and blackwork. The pleats are generally very tightly gathered providing a solid surface for the embroidery or overlays.
  
• Shirred fabric
  There are many portraits that show shirred fabric which has no visible means of holding the pleats in place. This is classes as a form of fabric manipulation, and while it has been called Italian smocking or Italian shirring and could be considered smocking it is not embroidery as such and it is grouped separately. Classed in this category as well can be what is modernly called back smocking. It is a conjectural format in which the anchoring stitches are placed along the inside layer of the garment, most likely using a stem or outline stitch. This would leave orderly rows of pleating showing on the right side of the garment with no other means of holding them in place. It would also include some of the intricate pleating that are found on late 16th century women's partlets.

In order to study smocking or pleatwork simply look to where there seems to be a need to either deal with fullness of fabric, or create fullness in a garment and then look to see how this was accomplished and what the influences of fashion were during the various periods.

This poses problems in itself. Secondary sources such as portraits are dependent on the skill of the artist and what their were trying to accomplish. This determines how detailed the portraits are and if we can discern the techniques used on the garments. There are very few portraits that show such detail that it could be said, yes, here is the embroidery, here are the pleats and it would be done like this..... The rest of the time, when the portraits are examined it will always be conjecture: was it embroidery or was it something more trim like? Besides a few pieces of extant garments most of what is available for study through description and portraiture is from the very late 15th century and from the first half of the 16th century.

The pleatwork itself was primarily used during a very narrow time period from the late 15th century to the early 16th century. While pleatwork has its origins in earlier times it's popularity was during a 50 year period in Germany, Italy and to some extent England. This site will explore the origins to its heyday and provide insight into the shape and embroidery of those garments.

I invite anyone who is interested to join the Yahoo group dedicated to this subject.(will open to a new page)

Enjoy and Happy Pleating!

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©2004 Two Rabbit Designs and Baronessa Rainillt Leia de Bello Marisco ( mka Lee Ann Posavad). The author retains full copyright for all material.