A smock is an English term that was used to describe an undergarment. One of the earliest mentions of the word is in the English story “The Miller’ Tale” by Chaucer, in 1390, where the wife is described as wearing a white smock embroidered in front and behind. ⁽¹⁾

"Whyt was hir smok,
and brooded al before and eek bihinde,
on hir coler aboute,
of col-blak silk, with-inne and eek"

The images of people and clothing from this time is mainly documented throughout statuary, tapestries and miniatures. Most of the art is religious in subject and very little exists of the portraiture that comes later. The clothing is narrower in profile and it is assumed the undergarments from that time are cut in very straight simple lines.

As we move along in time culture progresses towards a time of conspicuous consumption. The opulence is seen in the fullness of the clothing. No longer is it just for movement purposes but for proof of wealth. Towards the end of the 14th century, the Italians who were in the middle of the trade routes between the Byzantine Empire and the rest of Europe prospered. The individual city states became empowered as their citizens turned from more secular interests to exploring art, music and more importantly a sense of the individual.

The clothes became fuller and more visible. Necklines lowered and it was fashionable to see shirts and undergarments. Once they became visible under the robes and tunics of the era, they would naturally wish to make them more elaborate and embroidery was one solution.

One of the earliest available garments which seems to feature smocking type fabric manipulation is that of an 11th century Alb attributed to St Bernulf, which is located in the Utrecht Rijksmuseum. ⁽²⁾ The alb features gores which are made from 60cm pieces of fine linen which are pleated into gore inserts. The gore is shirred in what is considered modernly to be "italian shirring". A technique in which the gathering threads are laid out in a pattern and when pulled up, form intricate designs.

What makes this even more interesting is that there is a portrait attributed to Memling, FLight out of Egypt.(Ref No. 35/532) at the Glasgow Museum in which the gore to Mary's dress is obviously pleated in some fashion, most likely in a similar format to that of the alb. The scan of the portrait is difficult to see, I will replace it with a better image from the museum when it arrives.