Pleating the Fabric
There is no right or wrong way to pleat up your fabric. If you talk to 4 different people you will get 4 different answers depending on personal preference. The pleating of the fabric is the most time consuming part of making your garment. Use the method that gets the results you are trying to achieve.
Rows of horizontal gathering threads are run across the width of the fabric you are pleating up. The rows are spaced according to the needs of the pattern. Make sure the rows are placed close enough together to stabilize the pleats. A good guideline is about 1/4 inch apart. The rows should also be placed so they can be used as the guide for your embroidery.
Using a Pleater
Commercial pleaters are designed to make uniform pleats suitable for modern day smocking. This is good for many of the shirts and chemises. For coarser fabrics or deeper pleats one a pleater will not be usable. The biggest drawback to a pleater is the fixed pleat size. You will not be able to adapt the pleat size to suit the fabric or the project. The other down side is that they can be expensive to purchase.
Picking Up the Dots
To do "picking up the dots" method you mark out dots or pinpoints equal distance across the fabric. You then do a running stitch to "pick up the dots”. Methods to mark out the dots include plastic canvas, dot transfer paper or rulers.
Cartridge Pleat Method
Another method is to do a full running stitch, with the stitches equal distances apart, basically a basting stitch or gathering stitch, very much like you would do cartridge pleating.
