Basic Stitches
The following are basic stitches that can be used in pleatwork. They are being refered in their modern stitch name. These stitches can be documented for usage in embroidery pre 1600's
| BACKSTITCH |
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Backstitch shown through pleats. Also indicated are the gathering threads. This is also called running stitch in modern smocking terms and could be the stitch used for the blackwork on the pleats |
| STEM STITCH |
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Stem Stitch / Outline stitch, this is done in the same manner as it is with embroidery on a flat ground, the difference is that with each stitch a new pleat is picked up. This is possibly what would be used for any back smocking |
| HONEYCOMB STITCH | |
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The honeycomb stitch is basically 2 satin stitches placed together then done through alternating rows in order to form the honeycomb shape. The thread is carried between the rows on the underside of the pleat. |
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| CHAIN STITCH |
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| I have included this diagram of chain stitch done over pleats as a representation of what could have been used. The chain stitch is well documented in period. |
| TRELLIS STITCH |
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| This is the trellis stitch as it is modernly called. It is basically executed like the outline stitch except that it is done on a diagonal. It can be done to any length and will create v shapes, diagonal lines and diamond patterns on the pleated fabrics |
| PATTERN DARNING |
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| This stitch is a counted stitch that is done by taking the stitch either through the pleat or over the pleat. The rows of stitching are placed very close together in order. |